How to Sew Knits with Serger: MH Thread Factory Shares Practical Techniques

Mastering the art of sewing knits can transform your projects from basic to professional. Knit fabrics, beloved for their comfort and stretch, are used in many garments, from t-shirts to leggings. However, they can also present unique challenges, particularly for sewing enthusiasts transitioning to working with a serger. Following the specifications laid out in a pattern is essential for achieving professional-looking garments and maintaining the integrity of the fabric, particularly when working with stretchy materials. With the right techniques and tools, you can achieve impeccable results while sewing knits. This guide will walk you through everything from understanding knit fabrics to using a serger effectively, all with the expertise of MH Thread Factory at your service.

Introduction to Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are a type of fabric created by interlooping yarns, resulting in a material that is both stretchy and flexible. This unique construction makes knit fabrics a favorite for sewing enthusiasts, especially when creating comfortable garments like t-shirts, leggings, and sweaters. Unlike woven fabrics, which are made by weaving threads over and under each other, knit fabrics have a natural elasticity that allows them to stretch and move with the wearer.

When sewing with knits, it’s essential to use the right techniques and tools to achieve a professional-looking finish. The stretchiness of knit fabrics can be both a blessing and a challenge. On one hand, it provides comfort and ease of movement, making it ideal for active wear and everyday clothing. On the other hand, it requires specific handling to prevent issues like wavy seams or stretched-out edges.

To get the best results when sewing knits, you’ll need to familiarize yourself with the properties of different knit fabrics and choose the appropriate needles, threads, and stitches. For instance, using a ballpoint or stretch needle can prevent fabric runs, while stretch threads like those from MH Thread Factory can provide the necessary durability and flexibility for your projects.

In this section, we’ve introduced you to the basics of knit fabrics and their benefits. As you continue reading, you’ll discover more detailed techniques and tips to help you master the art of sewing knits, ensuring your garments look and feel professional.

Understanding Knit Fabrics and Sewing Machines

Before jumping into sewing, it’s essential to familiarize yourself with knit fabrics and how they interact with sewing machines.

Differential feed is crucial in sewing machines, especially sergers, as it improves fabric feeding and prevents issues like wavy seams and fabric damage by allowing two sets of feed dogs to move independently, providing better control when sewing knit fabrics.

Different Types of Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics come in a variety of types, each with unique characteristics:

• Cotton Jersey: Soft, lightweight, and perfect for t-shirts and casual wear.

• Cotton Interlock: Thicker and smoother than jersey, ideal for structured garments. Learn more about interlock fabric.

• Sweater Knits: Thick and cozy, these fabrics are excellent for warm garments such as cardigans. It is important to test stitches on multiple layers of fabric to ensure proper settings, especially when using a serger on sweater knits.

Choosing the Right Needle and Thread

Using the correct needle is crucial when sewing knits. Ballpoint or stretch needles are designed to glide between fabric fibers rather than piercing them, preventing runs and tears. Similarly, stretch or polyester threads, such as MH’s premium threads, provide the durability and flexibility necessary for stretchy garments. Additionally, utilizing wooly nylon or stretch thread in the lower loopers can enhance the elasticity of the stitch, which is especially beneficial for working with stretchy fabrics.

Serger vs. Sewing Machine

A serger is specifically designed for overlocking seams and creating a professional finish, while a standard sewing machine is perfect for stitching different patterns. Knowing when to use each one can enhance your efficiency and the quality of your projects.

• Use sergers for finishing edges and creating durable, stretchy seams. Various types of overlock stitches, such as a 4 or 5 thread overlock stitch, provide added support for seams and allowances, especially in sweater knit fabrics that tend to unravel.

• Use sewing machines for straight stitching or decorative details.

Preparing Your Serger for Knit Fabrics

Proper preparation ensures optimal results. Here’s how to get started:

Adjusting the tension dials on your serger is crucial for achieving optimal stitching performance, especially when working with varying weights and stretch factors of fabrics like sweater knits.

Threading your Serger

For knit fabrics, thread your serger with stretch-specific or wooly nylon thread, which flexes and moves with the fabric. These threads are offered as part of the extensive MH Thread range. Additionally, using a twin needle can create professional-like hems by providing two rows of stitching on the top side and a zigzag effect on the underside, maintaining the stretchiness of the fabric during wear.

Adjusting Tension and Stitching

To accommodate knit fabrics:

• Adjust your tension settings to prevent thread breakage and puckering.

• Use either a 3-thread or 4-thread overlock stitch for secure and stretchy seams.

• A 4-thread overlock stitch that employs two needles provides added seam protection and durability.

Practice First

Before starting your garment, practice on scrap fabric to fine-tune your serger’s tension and settings. Practice sewing on less complex garments to build confidence and improve your sewing techniques.

Cutting and Preparing Knit Fabric

Proper Cutting Techniques

Use a rotary cutter alongside a cutting mat for clean and precise cuts. This helps prevent stretching or distortion during the cutting phase. Additionally, using a coverstitch machine for finishing seams can provide professional hems and topstitching, ensuring a polished look for your garments.

Preparing the Fabric

Press knit fabric with a low-temperature iron to remove wrinkles. Avoid stretching the material to maintain its natural shape.

Before starting on the main project, test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure the sewing machine settings are correctly adjusted.

Seam Allowance

Cut with a 1-inch seam allowance to reduce stretching and ensure a tidy, professional finish.

Managing the raw edge is crucial for achieving clean and professional-looking seams, as it prevents fraying and ensures the durability of the final garment.

Walking Foot for Stability

Using a walking foot (also called an even feed foot) ensures stability and prevents fabric distortion while sewing.

Additionally, differential feed is crucial for preventing fabric stretching, as it uses two sets of feed dogs moving independently to provide better control, especially with knit fabrics.

Sewing with Knits: Tips and Techniques

Achieving flawless results while sewing knits requires some thoughtful techniques.

Using stretch stitches is crucial for maintaining seam flexibility and preventing seams from breaking when the fabric is stretched.

Stitch Selection

• Use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch to maintain flexibility for garments like t-shirts or leggings.

• For pieces that don’t require stretch (e.g., sweater knits), a straight stitch will suffice.

• Additionally, using a lightning bolt stitch with a walking foot can help maintain the integrity of the seams, preventing stretching compared to regular stitching.

Using a Double Needle

A double needle can replicate a coverstitch, creating a stretchy and polished seam finish. This is ideal for hems on knit garments. Using a twin needle is crucial for creating professional-like hems, as it allows for two rows of stitching on the top side and a zigzag effect on the underside, maintaining the stretchiness of knit fabrics during wear.

Leveraging the Serger

A serger adds a professional touch by cleanly finishing edges and seams. MH Threads recommends using their stretch threads for added durability and elasticity. Additionally, utilizing various types of overlock stitches, such as a 4 or 5 thread overlock stitch, can provide added support for seams and allowances, enhancing the durability of garments by preventing unraveling and reducing bulk.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even experienced sewers encounter challenges when working with knits. Here’s how to address them:

• Thread Breakage:

• Check the tension settings on your serger.

  • Use high-quality threads, such as MH’s durable stretch threads.

• Uneven Seams:

• Ensure consistent fabric feeding by using a walking foot or similar tools.

• Puckering:

• Adjust tension settings and use appropriate needles and threads.

Continue practicing on scrap pieces to diagnose and resolve issues efficiently.

Finishing Seams and Edges Professionally

Neat seams and edges elevate your projects to a professional standard.

• Use a serger with a 3-thread or 4-thread stitch to cleanly finish raw edges.

• Employ stretch thread or wooly nylon for stretchy and resilient seams.

• Press seams with a steam iron for a clean, crisp finish that highlights your craftsmanship.

• Managing the raw edge is crucial for achieving clean and professional-looking seams, preventing fraying, and ensuring the durability of the final garment.

Maintaining Your Serger for Optimal Results

A well-maintained serger ensures consistent performance over time.

• Clean your serger regularly to remove dust and lint from previous projects.

• Oil your machine as recommended in the manual to keep it running smoothly.

• Use a maintenance kit for routine upkeep, ensuring every component is functioning optimally.

• Practice regularly on scraps to stay proficient with your serger settings and capabilities.

• Adjust the tension dials to ensure optimal stitching performance, especially when working with different fabric types and weights.

Take Your Skills to the Next Level

Sewing knits with a serger is a skill that enhances your efficiency and the quality of your creations. By understanding fabric properties, using the right tools, and applying tested techniques, you can master this process and take on projects like t-shirts, leggings, and more with confidence. Start small, and with each project, you’ll refine your skills and build expertise. It's also crucial to use stretch fabrics for sewing patterns designed for knits, as they require specific needle types and stitch styles to accommodate their elastic nature.

MH Thread Factory recommends beginning with scrap fabrics to perfect your tension and stitch lengths. When you’re ready for the next step, consider signing up for a workshop or exploring online classes for hands-on guidance. Remember, the foundation of every successful project lies in quality materials. With MH Threads’ extensive range of threads, you can ensure a professional outcome from start to finish.

Happy sewing!