Can You Use Overlock Thread for Regular Sewing?

In garment manufacturing, efficiency and quality are paramount. The choice of materials, particularly thread, directly impacts the final product’s durability and appearance. Overlock sewing, which uses a serger machine and serger threads to finish seams and prevent fraying, is a standard industry practice. This raises a critical question for manufacturers: can overlock thread be used for regular sewing applications to streamline inventory and production?

There is more than one way to approach thread selection for manufacturing, and choosing the right one is crucial for ensuring both quality and efficiency.

This guide provides a comprehensive analysis for garment wholesalers and manufacturers on the feasibility of using overlock thread in a standard sewing machine. Manufacturers often need to buy thread in bulk and must consider where and how to buy the right type for their needs. Understanding the distinct properties of thread types is essential for maintaining seam integrity, optimizing machine performance, and delivering high-quality garments. We will explore the characteristics of overlock and regular sewing threads, the implications of using them interchangeably, and best practices for thread selection in a professional manufacturing environment.

Understanding Overlock Sewing and Thread

Overlock sewing is a specialized technique that simultaneously sews a seam and finishes the fabric edge. It utilizes a serger machine, which employs multiple threads to create a looped, interlocking stitch that encases the raw edge of the fabric. A common configuration is the three-thread overlock stitch, which balances strength and flexibility. This process is crucial for preventing fraying and providing a clean, professional finish, especially on knit and delicate fabrics.

Overlock threads, also known as serger threads, are engineered specifically for the high-speed, multi-needle environment of a serger. They are typically made from polyester or nylon, materials chosen for their strength, elasticity, and resistance to abrasion. The thickness of these threads is often measured using the tex system, which helps determine their strength and suitability for different fabrics. These threads are generally finer than standard sewing threads to reduce bulk in the seam and allow for the smooth operation of the serger’s complex looping mechanism. Their fine nature and reduced thickness make them ideal for precise, lightweight stitching and achieving a polished finish, especially on fine or delicate fabrics.

Differentiating Thread Types

For efficient garment production, a clear understanding of thread categories is non-negotiable. The main types relevant to manufacturing are serger thread, overlock thread, and regular sewing thread.

• Serger and Overlock Threads: These terms are often used interchangeably. Both are designed for use in serger machines. They are typically thinner and more elastic than regular sewing threads, a design choice that accommodates the high speeds and looping action of a serger. These threads are sold on large cones to support continuous, high-volume production without frequent changes. What sets serger and overlock threads apart from regular thread is their lower strength and higher elasticity, making them suitable for finishing edges but less reliable for seams under significant stress.

• Regular Sewing Threads: This category encompasses threads designed for use in standard lockstitch sewing machines. Regular thread is engineered for strength and durability to form the primary construction seams of a garment. They are generally thicker and less elastic than serger threads to ensure a strong, stable stitch that can withstand stress and tension. Regular thread is versatile and robust, making it better for garment construction where seam strength is essential.

It is possible to use regular thread in a serger, but it is not ideal, as it can be bulky and may cause machine issues. For most serging tasks, overlock thread is better due to its thinness and flexibility, while regular thread is better for main seams that require durability.

Choosing the correct thread type is a critical decision that affects seam strength, appearance, and the longevity of the finished garment.

Using Overlock Thread in a Standard Sewing Machine

The finer texture and different construction of overlock thread can lead to significant operational issues. The most common problems include inconsistent tension and poor stitch quality. Because it is designed for a serger’s balanced tension system involving multiple threads, overlock thread may not perform reliably in the two-thread (top thread and bobbin) system of a standard sewing machine. Overlock thread works in a regular sewing machine only if you make specific adjustments, such as lowering the tension and possibly shortening the stitch length, but even then, results would vary depending on the fabric and project. This can result in loose stitches, puckering, or uneven seams, all of which compromise garment quality. When you test the setup, you may see skipped stitches or weak seams, indicating that the thread is not performing as needed.

Key Thread Characteristics for Manufacturing

The performance of a thread is determined by several key characteristics that manufacturers must evaluate:

• Strength: Regular sewing threads are designed with high tensile strength to create durable construction seams that hold the garment together. Overlock threads, while strong, are engineered for coverage and edge finishing, not necessarily for bearing the load of a primary seam. Using quality thread for construction seams is essential to ensure optimal stitch quality, maintain proper tension, and prevent thread breakage. The straightness of a seam, particularly its straight-tensile strength, can be affected by the type of thread used, impacting the seam's integrity during sewing and wear.

• Texture and Lint: Good quality sewing threads have a smooth, bonded finish that minimizes lint and allows them to pass through the machine’s mechanisms with minimal friction. Overlock threads can be softer and produce more lint, impacting machine performance and cleanliness.

• Elasticity: Overlock threads possess a degree of elasticity that makes them ideal for finishing the seams of stretchy fabrics such as activewear or knits, ensuring proper seam elasticity and durability. However, this same elasticity can be a disadvantage in the construction seams of stable, woven fabrics, where stitch stability is required.

A thorough understanding of these properties allows production managers to make informed decisions that align with quality standards and operational efficiency.

Best Practices for Thread Selection

Making the right thread choice is fundamental to producing high-quality garments. Selecting the right thread is a great way to ensure your garments have durability and a professional finish. When planning your project, consider how much thread you will need, as different projects require varying amounts—buy as much as you want to avoid running out mid-project. A recommended way to select thread is to match the thread type and weight to your fabric and intended use. The following considerations will guide manufacturers in their selection process.

Match Thread to Application

For general sewing and garment construction, always use a high-quality regular sewing thread. Its strength and stability are engineered to produce durable, reliable seams that form the backbone of the garment. Reserve serger or overlock threads for their intended purpose: finishing seams, preventing fraying, and creating decorative edges with a serger machine.

Consider Fabric Type and Weight

The thread must be compatible with the fabric.

• Delicate Fabrics: Lightweight materials like silk or chiffon require a finer regular sewing thread to prevent puckering and damage. The choice of thread can also affect the final look of the garment, especially when using decorative overlock threads to create a unique visual effect.

• Heavy-Duty Fabrics: Denim, canvas, and upholstery demand a stronger, thicker thread that can withstand high stress. Seams behind high-stress areas, like the center back, require especially strong thread to ensure durability and prevent seam failure.

• Stretch Fabrics: While overlock thread is used to finish the seams on knits, the construction seams often benefit from a polyester regular sewing thread that offers some flexibility.

Tips for Industrial Sewing with Overlock Thread

If a specific application requires using overlock thread in a sewing machine (e.g., for a lightweight decorative stitch), keep in mind what sets industrial sewing practices apart from home sewing—industrial setups often require specialized handling and equipment. There are a lot of different overlock thread machines and configurations available for industrial use, each designed for specific tasks.

• Use a Cone Stand: Feed the thread from a large cone using a separate thread stand to ensure a smooth, untangled supply to the machine.

• Adjust Tension: Significantly adjust the top and bobbin tension to accommodate the finer thread. This requires careful testing on scrap fabric to achieve a balanced stitch.

• Select the Right Needle: Use a new, sharp needle of the appropriate size for the thread and fabric to prevent skipped stitches and thread breakage.

• Consider Three-Thread Overlock Stitches: For certain applications, a three-thread overlock stitch is commonly used, providing a balance between seam strength and flexibility for lightweight fabrics.

• Conduct Rigorous Testing: Before starting a production run, sew extensive samples to ensure the stitch quality and seam strength meet your standards.

The Final Stitch

The right thread is not a minor detail; it is a fundamental component of a well-made garment. While it may be tempting to use overlock thread for regular sewing to simplify inventory, the potential compromises in seam strength, stitch quality, and machine performance make it an inadvisable practice for primary garment construction.

For garment wholesalers and manufacturers committed to excellence, the best practice remains clear: use high-quality regular sewing thread for construction seams and specialized overlock thread for its intended purpose in a serger. By investing in the correct materials for each application, you ensure the production of durable, professional-quality garments that uphold your brand's reputation.

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