What Does Tex Mean in Thread? Understanding Its Weight and Importance for Manufacturing

Thread weight plays a critical role in textiles, influencing everything from garment durability to stitching aesthetics. Among the various technical terms manufacturers and textile professionals encounter, “tex” frequently comes up. If you’re wondering what does tex mean in thread or its relevance to your sewing projects, this guide will break it all down.

Whether you are a garment wholesaler, manufacturer, or textile enthusiast, understanding tex can help you make informed choices for your projects and operations. Tex is a universal measurement recognized by international organizations such as the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), and is part of several numbering systems used in the textile industry.

Thread Terminology Basics

Before we deep-dive into tex, it’s helpful to familiarize yourself with a couple of common thread-related terms:

1. Thread weight refers to a thread’s thickness or diameter, directly influencing seam strength, fabric compatibility, and stitch appearance.

2. Thread composition deals with the materials, such as cotton, polyester, or nylon, that make up the thread.

Thread size is a key specification for both thread and yarn, and there are various methods of measurement—such as tex, denier, and other numbering systems—used to determine and communicate thread size accurately.

Tex is one of the many measurement systems used globally, but not every standard is the same. While threads can also be measured in denier or ticket numbers, tex offers manufacturers a reliable way to gauge thread weight consistently.

What Is Tex in Thread?

Tex (short for “textile”) is a unit of measurement that indicates the thickness of a thread. The tex value is determined by weighing a particular thread over a fixed length of 1,000 meters. It is calculated as the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of that thread.

For example:

• If 1,000 meters of a thread weighs 30 grams, it has a tex value of 30.

• A higher tex value indicates thicker thread, while a lower tex value indicates finer thread.

• Tex falls under a direct system of measurement, and tex sizing is commonly used for consistency across different types of threads.

Tex is based on a fixed length of 1,000 meters, meaning that the same length of different threads can have different tex values depending on their weight. This simple yet effective measurement system is widely used in the textile industry due to its accuracy and straightforward approach.

Tex Measurement Formula:

Using the following calculation:

Tex = (Weight of thread in grams) ÷ (Length in meters ÷ 1,000)

This formula gives an exact calculation for tex. However, when working with other systems like ticket size, manufacturers may figure ticket size using methods such as singles denier x number, which involves multiplying the singles denier by the number of plies, or use other reference calculations. The tex system provides clarity for manufacturers and retailers, ensuring accurate product specifications and compatibility with different fabrics.

How Tex Is Measured

Tex is determined by weighing a specific length of thread under controlled conditions. The process involves standardized equipment, ensuring consistency across manufacturers. Variations in tex values originate from several factors, including material composition, spinning techniques, and finishing processes. Different tex sizes result from these factors, and minor differences in material or construction can lead to different final denier sizes. As a result, final denier sizes may vary even when the ticket size appears similar, highlighting the importance of understanding both tex sizes and final denier sizes in thread selection.

Why Use Tex?

The tex system is direct and precise, eliminating confusion between regions and different sizing methods. Unlike denier, which measures thread via filament specifics, tex is ideal for heavyweight or industrial threads. While tex is a direct system, there are also indirect systems and other methods used to measure thread and yarn sizes. Several numbering systems exist, and in some, a higher number means the heavier the thread (number the heavier), while in others, a higher number indicates the finer the thread (number the finer).

Measurement Systems for Thread Weight

When it comes to thread weight, there are several common methods used to measure and label threads, each with its own unique approach. The Tex system is one of the most widely adopted, measuring the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of thread. This direct system provides a clear and universal reference point, making it easy to compare different thread weights across brands and manufacturers.

Another popular method is the denier system, which measures the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of thread. While denier is often used for synthetic fibers, it can sometimes cause confusion when comparing to Tex, since the reference length is different. The weight system, on the other hand, takes a reverse approach: it measures how many meters of thread are needed to weigh one kilogram. This indirect system is commonly used for cotton threads and is sometimes referred to as the cotton count.

Understanding these measurement systems is essential for selecting the right thread for your sewing project. Whether you’re working with 1,000 meters of thread or comparing different thread weights, knowing how each system calculates weight in grams and length ensures you choose the best thread for your needs. The Tex system’s straightforward approach makes it a favorite among manufacturers who value consistency and clarity in thread sizing.

Thread Classification

Threads come in a wide variety of types, each designed for specific applications based on their weight, material, and construction. Fine Tex threads, for example, are ideal for delicate fabrics and detailed sewing projects where a subtle, less visible seam is desired. These finer threads are often used in embroidery, lightweight garments, and fine quilting.

On the other end of the spectrum, thicker threads are better suited for heavy-duty applications such as upholstery, leatherwork, and industrial sewing. The weight of a thread, often indicated by its Tex number, helps determine its best use. For example, a higher Tex value means a thicker, stronger thread, while a lower Tex value indicates a finer, more delicate thread.

Another important factor in thread classification is the number of plies. Single-ply threads are generally finer and may be more prone to breakage, making them suitable for lightweight fabrics. Multi-ply threads, which are made by twisting together two or more strands, offer increased strength and durability, making them a better choice for heavier materials and high-stress seams. By understanding the different types of threads and their distinct characteristics, you can select the perfect thread for any sewing or manufacturing project.

Thread Properties

The properties of a thread—such as denier, ticket size, and Tex size—play a significant role in determining its suitability for various sewing projects. Denier measures the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of thread, providing insight into the thickness and strength of the thread. Ticket size, meanwhile, is a manufacturer’s reference that typically reflects the final denier size of a thread, helping users compare threads labeled with different systems.

Tex size, which measures the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of thread, offers a direct and reliable way to gauge thread thickness. A finer thread will have a lower denier and ticket size, making it ideal for lightweight fabrics and detailed work. Conversely, a heavier thread with a higher denier and ticket size is better suited for robust materials and projects that require extra durability.

The number of plies and the twist of the thread also influence its performance. Multiple thread plies can enhance strength and reduce the risk of breakage, while the ply twist affects the thread’s smoothness and how it interacts with fabric. By considering these properties—denier, ticket size, Tex size, number of plies, and twist—you can confidently select the right thread for your sewing project, ensuring professional results and long-lasting seams.

Common Tex Values for Different Thread Types

Different applications call for varying tex levels. Each individual weight type, such as medium weight cotton or heavy duty cotton, has its own typical tex size, which helps determine its suitability for specific uses. Below are examples of tex values and their uses across the textile and garment manufacturing industries:

• Tex 10-30

These threads are fine and lightweight, suitable for delicate fabrics like silk or organza. Commonly used for embroidery and decorative stitching. For example, lightweight cotton threads often fall in this range. Note: The weight number system is another way to indicate thread thickness, where a lower weight number means a heavier thread. Threads with the same tex size can have different properties depending on their construction.

• Tex 25

Medium weight cotton typically has a tex size around 25, offering a balanced, versatile thickness suitable for a wide range of sewing applications.

• Tex 40-70

A standard range seen in garment construction threads. These are versatile and work well with general fabrics such as cotton, polyester blends, and light denim. Heavy duty cotton threads, with higher tex sizes like Tex 72, are used for more demanding applications requiring extra strength.

• Tex 80-105

Heavier threads ideal for upholstery, outdoor clothing, or industrial uses requiring strong seams and higher durability. Bonded thread, which is often used for heavy-duty sewing, typically falls within this tex range and is valued for its enhanced strength and resistance to abrasion.

• Tex 150 and above

Specialty threads for leather, canvas, or other heavyweight materials. Often used in furniture, shoes, or bags manufacturing.

Matching the appropriate tex value to your project ensures better performance, improved visual results, and minimized thread breakage.

Why Tex Matters for Sewing Projects

Manufacturers often ask, what is tex in thread and why does it hold significance for industrial and custom sewing projects? Tex is part of a fixed weight system used to measure thread size, and ticket number is another common manufacturer's reference for thread thickness or fineness. Ticket numbers function like a fixed weight system: higher numbers signify finer threads, while lower numbers indicate thicker ones. The final ticket size is determined after considering all thread construction factors, such as plies and twists, and different threads can have the same ticket size or same final ticket size even if their composition or raw denier values differ. Tex is critical for achieving optimal sewing patterns and quality finishes.

Here’s how understanding tex can improve your manufacturing outcomes:

Seam Strength and Durability

Choosing the correct tex ensures your thread can withstand the stress your final product will endure. The heavier the thread (higher tex value), the more suitable it is for demanding applications, as a heavier thread provides greater seam strength and durability. For any given thread, its tex value helps determine its suitability for seam strength. For example, outdoor garments that face extreme environments often require threads in the Tex 80+ range.

Fabric Compatibility

Using thread with an incompatible tex value may damage fabric or result in skipped stitches and uneven seam tension. Finer fabrics require finer threads, and thinner threads are best suited for delicate materials, while thick, dense materials demand heavier options.

Stitch Quality

The tex value directly affects how well a thread lays within a seam. Thicker threads (higher tex) are more prominent in stitching, offering decorative appeal ideal for specific products, while finer threads (lower tex) prioritize seamless blending with fabric.

Machine Performance

Thread tex determines how it interacts with different sewing machines. Some machines are calibrated to work best with specific tex ranges. Using a thread outside the machine’s capability can lead to broken needles or thread tangling.

Tips for Selecting the Right Tex

Selecting the best thread tex depends on your material, application, and desired outcome. Here are some tips for making the right choice:

1. Understand Fabric Weight

Heavy fabrics like denim or canvas require high-tex threads, while lightweight materials like satin work better with lower-tex options.

1. Consider the End Use

Threads with higher tex values are preferred for products like handbags and outerwear, which demand durability.

1. Check Singles Denier and Single's Denier Size

When selecting thread, consider the singles denier and single's denier size, as these factors, along with ply and twist, influence the final thread characteristics and ticket size.

1. Test Compatibility

Before committing to a full-scale production run, test your chosen thread and fabric combination to ensure seamless operations.

1. Consult Experts

Suppliers and industry specialists can provide tailored recommendations based on your manufacturing goals.

Resources for the Textile Professional

Understanding thread measurements like tex can empower textile professionals to make informed decisions for their businesses. If you want to deepen your expertise, explore these resources:

• Textile Industry Standards for global thread weights and specifications.

• MH E-Catalog for high-quality industrial threads in a wide range of tex values.

• Consultations with MH industry specialists to optimize thread choices for specialized projects.

Choose Tex with Confidence

Whether creating intricate garments or durable industrial products, knowing what does tex mean in thread is essential for success. Accurate thread selection enhances product quality and saves time by ensuring compatibility during manufacturing.

If you’re ready to explore premium threads tailored to your unique needs, browse our catalog or consult with our team of experts today. Elevate your production processes and achieve superior results, one stitch at a time.